Parece que hoy en día hablar de tejidos sostenibles, ecológicos o veganos está de plena tendencia; y menos mal, porque la moda sigue siendo la segunda industria más contaminante. Debemos seguir intentando buscar el equilibrio y los tejidos veganos parecen estar alcanzando un buen estatus dentro de la sostenibilidad. Sin embargo, los conceptos aún pueden ser algo confusos de diferenciar, por lo que hoy centramos nuestra atención en descubrir cuáles son esos tejidos veganos y todos esos detalles qué les caracteriza.
Parece lógico pensar que la mayoría de las firmas que nacen bajo el sello vegano suelen tener una conciencia social alta y, por tanto, suelen tener la sostenibilidad por bandera para hacer un uso responsable de los recursos, pero no siempre tiene por qué ser así.
No obstante, debemos prestar atención a los detalles de los tejidos porque hay tejidos sintéticos que no utilizan animales y que no son tan amigables para el medio ambiente; como veremos más adelante.
¿Qué son los tejidos veganos?

El tejido vegano es un tejido respetuoso con los animales. Así, los tejidos veganos suelen estar hechos con fibras naturales, fibras sintéticas y fibras artificiales o semisintéticas. No obstante, como comentábamos, no todos los tejidos que no explotan animales son sostenibles, por lo que muchos tejidos considerados veganos por la industria no lo son para las personas que realmente buscan un estilo de vida asociado al veganismo más puro.
Dentro de los ideales de los tejidos veganos, el tejido debe ser natural, sin aditivos tóxicos y reciclable para realmente ser sostenible y respetuoso con la vida en el planeta. Por ello, vamos a intentar entender las principales diferencias entre los tejidos que no utilizan animales en sus fibras y las particularidades de cada uno.
Tejidos naturales veganos

Dentro de las fibras naturales, podemos encontrar tejidos de origen animal (como la seda, el cuero o la lana) que no serían veganas al estar hechas a partir de animales que habitualmente se asocian con una sobre-explotación animal. Así, las fibras veganas naturales son de origen vegetal o mineral.
Las fibras textiles naturales de origen vegetal son de materiales diversos. Algunos proceden se semillas (algodón), de los tallos (lino, esparto, cáñamo, yute), hojas (sisal) o cascaras de algunos frutos (coco, piña, naranjas).
Las fibras minerales no son tan habituales en el mundo de la moda, como la fibra de vidrio o el contaminante amianto, pero otros sí son más conocidos como los hilos creados mediante plata y oro.
Fibras sintéticas

Las fibras sintéticas, por su parte, son tejidos químicos que se obtienen de derivados del petróleo y son económicos de fabricar; además de una gran resistencia que aporta durabilidad. Algunos ejemplos tradicionales en moda son el nailon, el poliéster, las fibras de PET o acrílicas, el elastano, las microfibras o las nano-fibras.
Como contrapartida, no suelen ser fabricados con materiales biodegradables y el proceso de elaboración puede llegar a ser muy contaminante. Por ello, a pesar de no estar fabricados con animales, no suelen ser opciones muy sostenibles o medioambientalmente amigables.
Fibras artificiales o semisintéticas veganas

Para finalizar, hablaremos de las fibras artificiales o semisintéticas veganas. Habitualmente, se fabrican con materias primas de origen natural a través de procesos artificiales.
Según la producción se conocen como tejidos celulósicos (rayón-viscosa, acetado, tela de bambú, lyocell), proteínicos de origen vegetal (el ardil a base de cacahuete, la vicara procedente del maíz o las fibras de proteína de soja) o algínicos (que normalmente se utilizan combinados con otras fibras).
Como en el caso anterior, para elaborar las fibras semisintéticas los procesos químicos son abrasivos, contaminantes y no sostenibles; dejando atrás muchos residuos. Por ello, muchas personas que buscan tejidos veganos sostenibles, emplean fibras recicladas; con el fin de reducir el impacto medioambiental. De esta forma, incluyen valores ambientales como la reutilización y el reciclaje.


16 respuestas a «Comprendiendo los Tejidos veganos»
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